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Much of my early twenties was spent among the braying ponytails and pink pashminas of Parsons Green. The two mainstays for our diet of G&Ts and crisps were The White Horse (known to us as “the Sloaney Pony”) and Aragon House (otherwise called “Arrogant House”).
Now these two London pubs, monoliths of Sloane Ranger culture, have both re-launched themselves with a springtime refurbishment. It is a battle of the boozers, so who did it better?
The White Horse benefits from its suntrap of a front terrace where, just as I did twenty years ago, you can sit with a view over the green and watch the world trot by. Butter yellow parasols shade smooth wooden benches and tables, and by noon there is already a selection of bright young gilet-wearing things with their laptops open and earphones in. Small fluffy dogs are clearly welcomed too.
Battle of the London pubs
They have also chosen the right way around when it comes to the menus. The food is traditional, classic and solidly good. The wine list is adventurous and varied.
Oysters served with chardonnay and shallots mignonette; pan-seared scallops with spiced crispy chorizo and lemon oil; a prawn cocktail generous with meaty prawns. The roast chicken is simply done with lemon, garlic and chives and the specials board touts British and Irish cuts of beef on the grill. But it is the ‘pie of the day’ that steals the show. Gooey, rich, meaty filling with a golden pastry topping – there commenced a fork war as my dining companion and I tried to snaffle the lion’s share.
The wine list shows reputable producers and recognisable people pleasers like New Zealand’s Cloudy Bay and a selection of Provence rosés but there are some more unusual gems too. Cult wines by Orin Swift and a fantastic Hugel Gewürztraminer were particularly good with the seafood and chicken. The service is upbeat and friendly and by the time we leave to cross over to Aragon House the outside is buzzing with groups of twenty and thirty-somethings enjoying the sun.
Aragon House cuts a more imposing figure but once past the tall, grey brick frontage the inside is warmly modern and artsy. Every inch of wall space is covered with canvases, sketches, paintings and prints and is lit by glowing globe lights and large windows. There is a sizable garden at the back and, though it is shaded during the day, it is beautifully finished, divided into covered, semi-private seated areas strung with festoon lights. Outdoor sofas and armchairs in soft blues and tabled booths are kept discreet with hedged dividers. An oyster shack is due to open in the garden this Spring.
The wine list plays it safe; I get the impression cocktails are more the order of the day at this newly refashioned London pub, with a range of spritzes, classics including a Bloody Mary and Negroni, and a selection of tequila and mezcal cocktails. Aside from Sundays, lunch options are limited to moule frites, smashed avocado or mac and cheese but there is an array of tapas-style bar snacks and sharing platters. Salt and pepper squid is flaccid and anaemic but baked king prawns pull me back in with a luscious, spiced tomato sauce that I slather all over my toasted focaccia.
Should you have settled in for a few espresso martinis, there are 15 bedrooms in jewel shades and vintage touches, which are family and dog friendly, too. So why not get the best of both? While the sun shines, ride that Sloaney Pony through the afternoon and as evening falls, find a cosy corner of Aragon House’s garden for a few cocktails… and then it’s just a short climb up the stairs to bed.
Go to whitehorsesw6.com and aragonhousesw6.com
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